Surfing culture is always something that has fascinated me. About 8 years ago, I gave surfing a try… My first experience was on a quiet beach in New Hampshire. The waves were smalls and my winters spent on a snowboard made me pick it up rather quickly… I got the surfing bug. I bought a wetsuit, a board and some wax, and started driving down to the beach as often as I could. When winter came, I bought a plane ticket to Australia to experience some real waves. I was getting pretty good, riding the waves of Byron Bay point. Then, one day at Tea Tree Cove in Noosa, I understood the full meaning of the power of the ocean—8ft waves and strong currents pushing me onto sharp rocks is not something I was prepared for.
So I’ll leave the hardcore surfing to the pros… And maybe venture out once in a while on a calm day. But I’ll never tire of watching surfers who have a passion for the ocean… Sandy salty hair, sun-kissed skin and nerves of steel. The Life Observed’s collection of surf prints takes me back to those days of carefree summer adventure.
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